Pro Tip: Measure Twice, Cut Once, Redo None-ce

My current project is a Captain America Belt based on the original The Avengers movie.  This belt has eight pouches (though I am only making six of them).  To save time and hopefully make them all consistent, I decided to mass produce them, doing each step six times before moving to the next one.

Sounds great, right?  Not if you’re me!

Incorrect Side Pieces

The observant reader will notice that the left (correct) piece is larger than the piece on the right.  Somehow for the sides of the belt pouches I mixed up the size, cutting the original pattern piece instead of my modded, larger one.  Not only did I cut out TWELVE of these fuckers (a pouch has two sides, after all), I also sewed them down onto 12 pieces of the fabric.  It was only when things didn’t line up as I was trying to fit everything together that I noticed.  AAUGH!!

Charliebrown-AUGH

There are a number of ways this could have been avoided.  In order for some good to come out of this, here are my tips for preventing this in the future.

  • Clearly mark pattern pieces and/or destroy unneeded ones
  • Double check the fit after the first piece was sewn, rather than the 12th
  • Notice that the seam allowance on the top and bottom were larger than the sides (I did notice this), and then DON’T excuse it as something that I must have done on purpose (it was not on purpose)
  • Keep better notes on an in progress project, so when you pick it up again a few weeks later you know things like dimensions, whether a pattern piece was modified, and what step you stopped on.

There you go, a lesson in Common Sense 101!

Red Sonja – Bikini Straps

The chainmail bikini that my client bought for her Red Sonja cosplay originally had suede cord as the fasteners.  Unfortunately when she was tightening the knots at a con, they snapped!  So after that con she got back in touch with me to replace the strings with something more substantial.

Rich actually ended up doing all the work on this one because he is the leatherworker.  All of the cord was replaced with leather straps and D rings.  This makes it infinitely adjustable, but still secure enough to wear for a full day.

Red Sonja Straps Finished

Here are some detail shots.  The straps are not completely symmetrical because we used scraps that were already cut from other projects.  The hardware all came from Tandy (and probaby the leather, too!)

Red Sonja Back Strap Red Sonja Bottoms Strap Detail Red Sonja Bottoms Strap Red Sonja Strap

Red Sonja – Gloves

The first thing that I worked on for Red Sonja was the gloves.  I’ve never made gloves before, so I did a lot of googling before deciding on an approach. Originally I wanted to use a heavily interfaced stretch pleather, but I couldn’t find the right thing at the store, and my samples came in too slow from Spandex House. Plus after making a mockup in some spare pleather I had laying around I decided it would be much too hot. 

Instead, I ended up with a coffee colored pigskinsuede split from Tandy, thinking it would breathe more. According to the site it is a 1 – 1.5 oz hide and approximately 6 sq feet, although I feel like mine was closer to 4. For the pattern I used Butterick5695 because it was laying around in my stash. I knew all those 99 cent pattern sales I hoard would come in handy for something!

The first thing I did was create a mockup of the glove using some old pleather that I had left over from my batman-inspired dress.  At the end I had something that actually looked like a glove!  It was pretty cool.

First Glove Prototype Back

Red Sonja’s gloves have a pretty distinct flare to them, as well as a cutout.  The total flare of the cuff was determined by slashing and spreading the prototype, then filling in the space with masking tape.  The total circumference ended up being just shy of 15 inches.

First Glove Prototype Cuff

The only other modification I made to the Butterick pattern was to shorten the thumbs by 1/4″.

When laying out the pattern I was trying to lay the fourchettes on the thinnest part and the cuffs/gauntlets on the thickest.  This might have make a small difference, but to be honest the whole hide is pretty thick so it was still difficult to sew.

Red Sonja Glove Layout

Even with glove needles sewing the fourchettes in was very very tough. I was able to do machine sewing on some of it, but the corners and finger tips had to be hand sewed.  Even using a three-sided glove needle and thimble, this took forever!

Red Sonja Glove Fingers

I’m really pleased with the way the cutouts came out.  For the cuffs, I used fusible interfacing on the lining (which was a polyester whatever from Joann), then reinforced the cutout with another piece of interfacing after I folded the edges in. The Lining was sewn to the top edge after the rest of the glove was constructed, then turned to the inside.  I sewed around the cutout to keep the lining and outer cuff together, then very carefully trimmed the leather on the outside.

Red Sonja Glove Cuff - Lining Cutout CloseupRed Sonja Glove - Lining Cutout Interfacing CloseupRed Sonja Glove Cuff - Lining Cutout FinishedRed Sonja Glove Cuff Lining

Overall I’m pleased with how they came out. The fingers are not as even as I would like them to be, but once they are on the flaws don’t show as much. I mean.. I made GLOVES! For some reason that is so much more satisfying than the normal things I make.

The “glove stand” is just a piece of foam board with a cut up pool noodle from the dollar store hot glued to it.

Red Sonja Glove Finished Back Red Sonja Glove Fist Red Sonja Glove Inside Cuff Red Sonja Gloves Finished Back